How to raise an orphaned kitten baby
 
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Cat's Health
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Cat's Behavior

Cat Language

Since cats can't talk to us in words, we have to learn to understand their language.

Have you ever wondered when a cat does a stiff-legged half jump against your leg? In kitten language that means “Howdy pardner, what's up???”

Have you ever wondered why a cat uses the litter box? In their natural environment cats protect themselves by hiding their feces from potential predator or intruding competition. Domesticated cats have kept this trade up.

Have you ever wondered what makes a cat purr? You guessed it: the first reason is that the cat feels good. Another reason is to let others know thatthey are no danger to them. Some cats do purr when they are hurt or scared. Do not mistaken this asthe cat being content!

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Happy Cat
If your cat is elaxed she will have her eyelids half-closed with her ears pointing forward and a little bit outward. If she stands up, her tail will be straight up with the tip bent forward.

Defensive Cat
A threatened cat's pupils will dilate and the ears will be flat down. She might arch her back to make herself look larger and more intimidating, that's also the reason why the hair usually stands up.

Angry Cat
An aggressive cat looks similiar to the defensive cat, but in addition she will also hiss and growl. Her teeth and claws might be exposed and she looks like she could jump into your face at any moment. Once the tail starts thrashing from side to side, it's time to clear the danger field, because kitty is about to attack!

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Leash Training

Try the following in order to see if your cat is made to walk on the leash:

  • Buy a harness for you cat. Do not use a collar.
  • Keep the harness and leash around your cat so she becomes familiar with it.
  • After a few days put the harness on your cat and feed her immediately afterwards.

Follow the direction on the harness so it won't be too tight. Two fingers should be able to fit between the harness and the cat's skin.

  • Should the harness start to bother him distract him with some treats and toys.
  • Remove the harness once he starts to feel comfortable with it.
  • Do all the above for a week and leaving the harness for longer each time.
  • After that week put the leash on the harness and let the cat drag it behind her. Make sureshe doesn't get tangled up! Reward her a lot.
  • After he got used to the leash dragging behind him, start picking up the leash, but do not allow tension, just walk behind her with the leash loose in your hand.
  • After a few days of that, start pulling on the leash a little bit and encourage your cat to come towards you with a treat. If she is resistant, do not fight her.
  • After you are satisfied that your cat is comfortable with the harness and leash, move the exercise to the outdoors.
  • Slowly stay out longer and longer and move further and further away from your property.

Eventually your cat will walk on the leash like a trained dog!

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Love Bites

Love bites are the oddest thing. One second you are petting and cuddling with your cat, he is enjoying himself, purring up a storm and then all of the sudden he bites your hand. What just happened?

This was not an angry bite, don't worry. He simply got a little bit ahead of himself and over excited.

The bite was his way or releasing that tension. Usually those so-called "love bites" don't break skin or even hurt, but should your cat's love turns out to be painful for you, the best thing you can do is to completely ignore him.

Do not even look at him, walk by him and do not fall for his begging for attention. Give him treats when he is calm and refuse to pet him when he attempts to nibble on you again.

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Not using the Litterbox

Litter box and spraying can cause tremendous frustration to every cat owner. You will find help in understanding what causes the behavior to begin with. It's could be caused by a urinary tract infection, a territorial response, new home, new baby, new litter box, new pet, new litter, not enough litter, the wrong box, location of the box, not enough boxes, you name it! Please be aware and understand that punishment is never the answer. It might make the situation even worse.

The first response to your cat not using the litter box should be a trip to the vet to eliminate any physical causes such as a urinary tract infection (the most common cause). Spraying is marking the territory. If your cat has not been neutered, you should consider it.

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Spraying

Unneutered tomcats are most likely to spray. Neutered males as well as unneutered females and neutered females also may exhibit this behavior.

Owners may observe their cat spraying and notice a urine odor, or find evidence of urine on vertical surfaces.

Urine marking is a normal social behavior of domestic cats which serves several communication functions. Contrary to popular belief, spraying does not intent to exclude other cats from the marking cat’s territory; other cats are drawn rather than avoid sprayed sites, making it appear more like an advertisement and information sharing.

Neutering stops or at least greatly reduces urine marking in 87 percent of intact males that spray.

Generally, cats will cease spraying within two weeks after undergoing this procedure; however, improvement may not occur for up to six months in some cats.

For unneutered cats, neutering by itself is often effective in eliminating or greatly reducing urine marking. In neutered cats that spray, however, environmental, behavioral and pharmacological management is required.

Urine marking occurs in sexual, territorial and competitive contexts. Treatment requires first identifying the specific social or environmental factors that trigger the marking and then both limiting the cat’s exposure to those factors and reducing its response to them.

Environmental management involves making changes in the household that reduce the cat’s exposure to arousing stimuli. For example, when the presence of stray or neighbor cats triggers spraying, it is necessary to either block the cat’s view of those cats or to use repelling devices to keep the other cats away. Sometimes it is possible to work out a "traffic control" schedule with neighbors to reduce the cats’ exposure to one another.

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